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Reef-Safe & Ingredients

How to read a sunscreen label

One box on the back is regulated. Everything on the front is marketing. Here is how to tell them apart.

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Turn the bottle over and find the box headed Drug Facts. Its first section, Active Ingredients, lists every UV filter and its percentage — that box is the only part of the label with regulatory force behind it. Broad spectrum and water resistance are the only two other regulated claims. Everything on the front of the bottle is marketing.

Learn to read one box and the entire category becomes legible. Here it is, line by line.

1. Active Ingredients

Each UV filter with its concentration by weight. This tells you the filter type, whether it satisfies reef restrictions, and roughly how heavy it will feel.

FilterTypeCoversRestricted anywhere?
Zinc oxideMineralUVB, UVA I and IINo
Titanium dioxideMineralUVB, short UVANo
AvobenzoneChemicalLong UVANo
OctocryleneChemicalUVB, short UVAYes — USVI, Palau
HomosalateChemicalUVBNo
OctisalateChemicalUVBNo
OctinoxateChemicalUVBYes — widely
OxybenzoneChemicalUVB, short UVAYes — widely

Note the alternative names: oxybenzone is benzophenone-3 or BP-3; octinoxate is octyl methoxycinnamate or ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate; avobenzone is butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane. Oxybenzone versus avobenzone covers the two most confused.

2. Uses

Short and formulaic. The line that matters is whether it says the product helps prevent sunburn only, or whether it also references decreasing the risk of skin cancer and early skin aging. The second version is permitted only for broad-spectrum products at SPF 15 or higher. A product limited to the first version is telling you it is not broad spectrum.

3. Warnings

Standard boilerplate, with one exception worth reading. A non-broad-spectrum product, or one below SPF 15, must carry the Skin Cancer / Skin Aging Alert: it states that the product has been shown only to help prevent sunburn, not skin cancer or early skin aging. If you see that alert, put the bottle back.

4. Directions

Where the water-resistance claim lives, and US labels may only claim 40 minutes or 80 minutes. Waterproof and sweatproof were banned outright in 2012 as misleading. It also states the reapplication interval — every two hours, and after swimming or toweling off. Water-resistant sunscreen explained.

5. Inactive Ingredients

Everything else, in descending order of concentration. This is where most reactions come from — fragrance, essential oils and botanical extracts, well ahead of the filters themselves. If your skin is reactive, this list matters more to you than the actives panel does. Best sunscreen for sensitive skin.

What the front of the bottle is worth

ClaimRegulated?What it tells you
SPF numberYesTested sunburn protection at 2 mg/cm² of skin
Broad spectrumYesPassed the FDA UVA test. What it means
Water resistant 40 / 80 minutesYesTested immersion time — those two options only
Waterproof, sweatproof, sunblockBanned since 2012Should not appear at all
Reef safe / reef friendlyNoNothing. Full detail
Natural, clean, chemical-freeNoNothing. Full detail
Non-nanoNoA real particle-size description, unregulated and unverified
Non-comedogenicNoNo standard; no guarantee for acne-prone skin
Pediatrician / dermatologist testedNoNo defined protocol behind either phrase
HypoallergenicNoNo standard whatsoever

The thirty-second version

  1. Does it say broad spectrum? If not, put it back.
  2. Is it SPF 30 or higher? That is the recommended floor.
  3. Does it claim water resistance (40 or 80 minutes)? Required if you will swim or sweat.
  4. What is in Active Ingredients? Mineral or chemical, and does it satisfy any restrictions where you are going?
  5. Any fragrance in the inactive list? Relevant if your skin is reactive.
  6. Is there an expiration date? If not, assume three years from purchase. Does sunscreen expire.

Sources

Frequently asked questions

What should I look for on a sunscreen label?

Broad spectrum, SPF 30 or higher, and a water-resistance claim if you will swim or sweat. Then check the Active Ingredients box for filter type, and the inactive list for fragrance if your skin is reactive.

Where are the active ingredients on a sunscreen bottle?

In the Drug Facts panel, usually on the back or side. Active Ingredients is the first section, listing each UV filter with its percentage by weight. It is the only part of the label with regulatory force behind it.

What sunscreen claims are regulated?

SPF, broad spectrum and water resistance (40 or 80 minutes only). Waterproof, sweatproof and sunblock have been banned since 2012. Reef safe, natural, clean, non-nano, non-comedogenic and hypoallergenic are all unregulated.

What does the skin cancer alert on sunscreen mean?

It appears on products that are not broad spectrum or are below SPF 15, and states the product has been shown only to help prevent sunburn — not skin cancer or early skin aging. It is a signal to choose a different product.